Hungary

History

  • Hungary winemaking dates back thousands of years to when the Celts and Romans began cultivating here.
  • Viticulture really began to flourish under King Saint Stephen in the 11th century.
  • In the 16th century Hungarian wine claimed international status, especially for Tokaji Aszú. the worlds first botrytized sweet wine. it was praised by King Louis XIV, Beethoven and Voltaire.
  • The Ottoman occupation came during the 16th-17th centuries. This brought the wine quality down. It recovered when the Habsburgs took over.
  • Phylloxera devastated vineyards in the late 19th century.
  • During the communist era (1949-1989) quantity was prioritized over quality.
  • During the 1990’s Hungary regained its vigor for high quality and today the wines are better than ever. 

Main Regions

Tokaj

Hungary has 22 official wine producing regions. Lets highlight some of the most important. 

      Tokaj (formerly Tokaji)- The wine drunk by Kings and Queens for more than 400 years. It was the first botrytized sweet wine in the world. Hungary’s holy grail and the most well known region outside the country. Its known for its deliciously sweet Tokaj Ezsú. Grapes used for this style of wine are Furmint, due to its high suseptibility to botrytis and high acidity, next is Hárslevelü, a grape rich in sugar and aroma. Muscat Blanc à Grains can also be used but very rarely is and is in small quantities. 

                Tokaj was also one of the first regulated wine regions in the world. In 1737 vineyards were classified into first, second, third and unclassified growths. The sweetness for Ezsú is measured in Puttonyos. First vineyards are harvested and separated into botrytis affected grapes (Eszú berries) and grapes that are not affected. The non affected grapes are pressed and fermented while the affected grapes are left to sit and slowly leak the great Eszencia juice. Traditionally a Puttonyos was measure by how many 20 kilo vineyard hods were added from the Eszú pile to a 136 barrel of the fermented/partly fermented non affected wine or must. Today sweetness is more so measured by g/l of sugar. Wines labeled with 5 or 6 Puttonyos (highest Puttonyos level) have sugar levels ranging from 150g/l to 300g/l, sometimes exceeding levels much higher, while also maintaining verve, acidity and  exciting complexity. The wines are then aged in barrel or stainless steel.  The notorious Eszencia is the pinnacle of what Hungary has to offer the wine world. It has so much sugar it can barely ferment, with sugar levels reaching 850 g/l. Its the complete essence of Tokaj with unforgettable textures of velvet, peach oil  and a finish that feels like it can last forever.There are a couple other styles of Tokaj worth mentioning. Szamorodni is a style were no Eszú grapes are added and were at harvest both clean and botrytis berries are crushed together. There are 2 different styles of Szamorodni, Száraz is a dry sherry like wine and Edes is a sweeter style. Also dry Tokaj wines have made a spectacular come back with quality the best its ever been. This style is mostly made with the Furmint grape. Tokaj is know a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized in 2002.  

Climate & Soil

Tokaj’s climate is continental, with hot summers and cold winters. Autumns tend to be longer and dry than other regions, making it ideal for botrytis to develop. There are also humid morning mists that help botrytis to flourish. These mists are caused by 2 major rivers, the Bodrog and the Tisza rivers.  The best soils here are volcanic in origin which give structure, complexity, balance and longevity. Other important soil types here include: Loess, which is good for drainage and creates elegant wines, clay and rhyolite tuff, good for retaining moisture in drier years. 

Top Producers

  1. Royal Tokaj – A benchmark producer for classic Tokaj wines. Also has great distribution in the USA which makes it easier to find. 
  2. Szepsy – World class terroir driven Tokaj’s. Istvan Szepsy is a legend in the region. Very sought after producer.
  3. Oremus – Owned by the infamous Vega Sicilia from Spain. Known for incredible high quality Eszú and dry Furmint. 
  4. Disznókö – Classic elegant Eszú with amazing consistancy. 
  5. Barta – Focused on old vine Furmint. They make some of the most exciting dry Furmints in Tokaj. 
  6. Samuel Tinon – A pioneer of the Szamorodni styles. He makes both dry and sweet versions but his dry Szamorodni is on another level.
  7. Kikelet Pince – A small producer making single varietal Furmints and Hárslevelu. The latter is the best example of the grape you can find. 
  8. Balassa – A small winery focused on volcanic terroir driven single vineyard dry Furmint’s. 

Eger

You have probably heard of or tried the famous wine from here, Egri Bikavér “Bulls Blood“, a sweet red blend from the hills of this region. The wines have since become more serious and quality focused. The main grapes grown here are: Kékfrankos(Blaufränkisch), Kadarka, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir for reds and Olaszrizling, Leányka and Hárslevelu for whites. The most important soils here are volcanic and limestone. The main terroir influences are the rolling Mátra Hills which provide many microclimates for lots of different and unique wine styles. Eger for the most part is a fairly cool climate making elegant, acid driven wines. 

Villany

This is the southernmost region in Hungary making it prime territory for full bodied reds with its warmer climate. Main grape varieties here include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Kekfrankos, Zweigelt, Portugieser, and Syrah. Was once known for big overripe styles with lots of oak that were hard to drink. They have since been making wines with some more balance and approachability. The soils here are loess, limestone, and clay. 

Szekszard

Szekszárd is situated just to the northeast of the Villány region. Which makes it a warm climate similar to Villány. Grapes grown here are Kekfrankos, Kadarka, Merlot, and the Cabernets. The deep loess soils here make structured wines with more finese and elegance than Villány. 

Somlo

Somló is mainly a white wine region that sits on a volcanic hill just north of Balaton Lake. The main grapes here include Olaszrizling, Furmint, Harslevelu and by far the best grape of the region ,Juhfark, which makes a white wine of piercing acidity, complexity, incredible minerality and age ability. The prime soil type here is volcanic basalt. Climate is continental. 

Mor

Mór is located about 50km northeast of Somló on limestone, clay and loess soils. With a cooler climate this is another great white wine producing region. Focused on the unique indigenous grape Ezerjó. Dry styles of Ezerjó from here can be fairly neutral with high acidity and notes of green herbs, pear, honey and an oily texture. Sweet styles tend to have more pronounced stone fruit along with the green herbs. You can also see some oak aging with both styles. 

Badacsony

A classic region that sits on the north shore of Lake Balaton, which moderates the climate here. The region is mainly known for elegant full bodied white wines from grapes such as Olaszrizling, Juhfark, Kéknyelu, and Szürkebarát (Pinot Gris). The soils you find here are volcanic basalt and sand. Lake Balaton is the largest lake in Europe and is a very popular vacation spot for Hungarians. There are 3 other regions that surround this Lake. Balatonfüred-Csopak, Balatonboglár, and Zala. These regions are also known for white wine and a little sparkling wine.

Other Regions

Some other regions of note include, Bükk, which is a region just east of Eger known for lighter style reds from Kekfrankos and Kadarka, and crisp whites from Olaszrizling. Mátra is a region just to the west of Eger that specializes in white wines but also is starting to make some promising reds from Kekfrankos and Kadarka. Sopron is another red wine producing region that sits south of the Burgenland region of Austria. Kekfrankos is the highest regared grape here without surprise as its the same grape used in Austria just north and is making high quality wines from it. Pannonhalma is about 50 miles east of Sopron. Mostly white wines from Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc are made here but some excellent Pinot Noir and Merlot can be found as well. A few more miles east you will find Neszmély and Etyek-Buda. Both regions are known for modern style dry white wines made with international grape varieties and a little bit of sparkling wine. Half of Hungary’s vineyard land lies on the Great Plain located in the south central area of Hungary. 3 regions occupy this area, Kunság, Csongrád, and Hajós-Baja. Mostly bulk wine for everyday drinking is made here. Although there are a couple producers showing quality wine is possible here.